Do you ever see a new yarn, and just know right away you want to try it? That happens to me all the time. When I heard about the new Whims Merino from Furls I new I had to make something with it, but I wasn’t sure what.
Furls Whims Merino is a light weight, Z-Twist yarn. It is 50% superwash merino and 50% nylon. This gives it a nice stretch that is perfect for comfy garments, like the Pixel Cardi. But, it’s the Z-Twist that makes this yarn extra special for crocheters. Most yarn actually has an S-Twist, which works against you when you crochet. Crazy, right? S-Twist yarn was designed for knitters, while Z-Twist yarns are made with crochet in mind. There aren’t a whole lot of options for Z-Twist yarn readily available, so I pounced on the chance to try the Furls version.
I wanted to keep my design simple – something that would be easy to throw over a tshirt and jeans this spring. I used a simple filet crochet pattern on the back to add a little visual interest. One of my testers commented that it looked like pixels – so the Pixel Cardi was born!
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Are you ready to start your Pixel Cardi? First, you’ll need to gather your supplies:
Method: Crochet
Skill Level: Intermediate
Hooks: 4.5 mm (US G+)
Other: Yarn needle, stitch markers (2)
Yarn: Furls Whims Merino, or comparable 3 weight yarn. 1100 – 1700 yards
Gauge: 4” x 4” 15 st by 8 row in dc
Notes: Ch 2 at end of row does not count as a stitch
Sizes in this pattern are indicated as XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL). I recommend printing the pattern and highlighting the instructions for your size.
Abbreviations
st stitch
ch chain
slst slip stitch
fhdc foundation hdc crochet
dc double crochet
sp space
sm stitch marker
Sizes are according to bust size as follows:
XS – 30 inches
S – 34 inches
Medium – 38 inches
Large – 42 inches
XL – 46 inches
2XL – 50 inches
Pattern is written with +2 positive ease
Special Stitches:
This pattern uses the fillet crochet method. When working your stitches, you will place two dc in each ch 2 sp.
Fhdc 127 (133, 152, 169, 177, 202). Ch 2.
R 1: Dc in each st across, ch 2, turn. 127 (133, 152, 169, 177, 202)
Place a stitch marker in the 31 934, 37, 39, 43, 49) st and the 97 (100, 116, 131, 135, 154) st. Each row, move your sm to the corresponding st in that row.
R 2: Dc to sm, dc 1 *dc 11, ch 2, sk 2*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st, dc to end. Ch 2, turn. 127 (133, 152, 169, 177, 202)
R 3: Dc to sm, dc 1 *dc 2, ch 2, sk 2, dc 9*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st, dc to end. Ch 2, turn. 127 (133, 152, 169, 177, 202)
R 4: Dc to sm, dc 1 *dc 7, ch 2, sk 2, dc 4*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st, dc to end. Ch 2, turn. 127 (133, 152, 169, 177, 202)
Repeat R 2 – 4 as follows, then proceed to upper panels.
XS: 8 times
S: 8 times
M: 9 times
L: 9 times
XL: 10 times
2XL: 10 times
*Note, if you would like to make your piece longer, you can add
repeats here.
Left Panel (continuing from last row worked):
R 1: Dc in first 30 (33, 36, 38, 42, 48) st. Ch 2, turn.
R 2: Dc across. Ch 2, turn. 30 (33, 36, 38, 42, 48)
Repeat R 2 13, (14, 15, 15, 16, 17) times. Break yarn and weave in ends.
Middle Panel (join yarn in marked st):
R 1: Dc 1 *dc 11, ch 2, sk 2*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st. Ch 2, turn. 67 (67, 80, 93, 93, 106)
R 2: Dc 1 *dc 2, ch 2, sk 2, dc 9*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st. Ch 2, turn. 67 (67, 80, 93, 93, 106)
R 3: Dc 1 *dc 7, ch 2, sk 2, dc 4*. Repeat from * to * up to the sm, dc 1 in marked st. Ch 2, turn. 67 (67, 80, 93, 93, 106)
Repeat R 1 – 3 3, (4, 4, 4, 4, 5) times. Break yarn and weave in ends.
R 4: Dc across. Ch 2, turn. 67 (67, 80, 93, 93, 106)
Repeat R 4 2, (0, 1, 1, 2, 0) times. Break yarn and weave in ends.
Right Panel (join yarn in st after marked st):
R 1: Dc in first 30 (33, 36, 38, 42, 48) st. Ch 2, turn.
R 2: Dc across. Ch 2, turn. 30 (33, 36, 38, 42, 48)
Repeat R 2 13, (14, 15, 15, 16, 17) times. Break yarn and weave in ends.
After making all panels, fold the right panel so that the upper edge aligns with the upper edge of the middle panel. Seam the shoulder with your preferred method. Repeat for the left side. Turn your cardigan right side out so the seam are on the inside, and proceed to the sleeves.
Sleeves (x2):
Leaving a long tail, join yarn in underarm, with right side facing you. Ch 2.
R 1: *2 dc, dc*. Repeat from * to * around, join with slst into first st. Ch 2, turn. 45 (48, 51, 51, 54, 57)
R 2: Dc 1, dc2tog, dc around until 3 sts remain, dc2tog, dc. Join with slst into first st. Ch 2, turn. 43 (46, 49, 49, 52, 55)
R 3: Dc around. Join with slst into first st. Ch 2, turn. 43 (46, 49, 49, 52, 55)
R 4: Dc 1, dc2tog, dc around until 3 sts remain, dc2tog, dc. Join with slst into first st. Ch 2, turn. 41 (44, 47, 47, 50, 53)
R 5: Hdc around. Join with slst into first st. 41 (44, 47, 47, 50, 53)
Finish off and weave in ends. Use your initial tail to sew up any gaps in the underarms.
Finishing:
With cardigan facing right side out, and the front towards you, join yarn in the bottom left corner of the cardigan opening
R 1: *2 hdc, hdc 1*, Repeat from * to * up the side of the cardigan, around the neckline, and down the other side. Ch 2, turn. 117 (120, 132, 132, 144, 147)
R 2: Hdc around. Ch 2, turn. 117 (120, 132, 132, 144, 147)
R 3: Hdc around. 117 (120, 132, 132, 144, 147)
Finish off and weave in ends. Use the long tail from joining to sew together any gaps under the arm.
Before you go…
You are welcome to sell finished items created with this pattern. I only ask that you credit Hooked Hazel with the original design. Do not use my photos to sell finished products. Do not copy, alter, or distribute this pattern.
I would appreciate your review on Etsy, Ravelry, or Instagram. Tag me in photos, and I may feature your project! Use the hashtags #alwaysyarning and #pixelcardi to possibly be featured!
Contact
@hookedhazel
hookedhazel.com
hookedhazel@gmail.com
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