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Free Crochet Patterns

Classic Tunisian Pullover

Hi friends! I am so excited to finally share with you this new Tunisian Crochet pattern! I’ve been working on this concept for what seems like forever! If you’ve been following me for awhile, you know I am really enjoying Tunisian Crochet lately and that working in the round is one of my favorite things! In fact – I feel like Tunisian Crochet in the round is an easy skill that seems intimidating but really isn’t. If you’d like to give it a go on a smaller project before trying a full sweater, I have a couple patterns you can check out.

Tunisian Rib Cowl
Tunisian Fusion Beanie

Both of the above patterns make use of Tunisian Crochet in the round using two colors, one for the forward pass and one for the return pass. For the Classic Tunisian Pullover I used just one color, but keep in mind you will use separate balls of yarn for the forward pass and return pass. Need a refresher on working Tunisian Crochet in the round? I have a helpful IGTV tutorial you can watch to familiarize yourself with the process.

The above video makes use of the Tunisian Rib Stitch. For this pattern we will be using the Tunisian Knit Stitch, but the set up and general process is the same.

The Yarn Used

For this pullover, I used City Tweed DK in Plum Wine from WeCrochet. This fun yarn features little nubs of tweed and adds a lot of texture to this sweater. It is a blend of alpaca and woold fibres, making it a super soft and cozy choice for a sweater! WeCrochet offers lots of other DK weight yarn as well, Swish DK is another popular choice that comes in a wide range of colors.

The Hooks Used

When working Tunisian Crochet in the round, you will need either a double ended hook or a set of interchangeables so that you can place a hook on either end of a cord. I prefer to go the interchangeable route, and use the Radiant Wood set from WeCrochet. This set is absolutely gorgeous and the yarn glides beautifully on them. A little trick I use is that for my forward pass side I use whatever size hook the pattern calls for, then for the return pass side I use a size smaller. That way I only need one set of hooks!

Amazon also offers some hooks in the way of interchangeables, I used this Denise set previously and it is a very nice beginner set at a great price.

I made my Classic Tunisian Pullover slightly cropped, but feel free to add length, subtract length, shorten the sleeves – whatever! The options are really endless on how you can make this fun pattern 100% you! Check out some of the versions from my testers, and be sure to visit them on IG to see all of their makes.

You’ll find the pattern below, but be sure to also check out the other patterns available as part of the Fall Wearables Blog Hop at the button below.

Pinning this post for later helps me grow my blog and continue to provide free content.

The Pattern

Method Tunisian Crochet

Skill Level Intermediate

Hooks 6 mm double ended hook (US J), or size needed to meet gauge and 5.5 mm (US I) crochet hook

Yarn DK weight, 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650, 1750, 1850, 1950, 2050, 2200) yards

Notions Yarn needle, locking stitch markers, blocking pins and mat, tape measure, scissors

Gauge 4” x 4” 16 sts by 16 rows in tks, for ribbing, 4 rows per inch

Sizes For bust sizes 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)”

Abbreviations

st(s) stitch(es) 

ch chain 

slst slip stitch

tks tunisian knit stitch

inc increase

FwP forward pass

RetP return pass

sc single crochet 

blo back loops only

sk skip

sm stitch marker

2tog 2 together (decrease)

Sizing

 XSSMLXL2XL3XL4XL5XL
Bust Size303438424650545862
Finished Bust Measurement323640444852566064
Yoke Length888.59.59.751010.51111.5
Arm Length16.516.5171717.517.5181818.5
Neckhole opening202122232323242424
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  • Instructions are written with the smallest size first then larger size in parentheses.
  • St counts are given in < > where a change occurs.
  • I recommend printing out your pattern and highlighting the directions for the size you are making.
  • This sweater is worked in continuous rounds for the Tunisian section. Do not slst to join rounds.
  • Work each round in sections, as in 19 sts of Fwp then 19 sts of RetP
  • RetP is worked for each round.
  • When the pattern instructs to increase, insert your hook, front to back in between the st just worked and the next st, and pull up a loop.
  • Remember that when working Tunisian in the round, you will use one ball of yarn for your FwP and one ball (same color) for your Retp.
  • If you wish, rather than using a double ended hook you may use interchangeable hooks, working your RetP with a size smaller than your FwP
  • When working the bottom or sleeve ribbing, for the slst, insert your hook into the indicated st of the Tunisian fabric  as if to complete a tks, then proceed as a slst.

Pattern

With traditional crochet hook, ch 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd st from hook and each st across, ch 1, turn. <6 sc>

Row 2: Scblo each st across, ch 1, turn. 

Row 3 – 80 (84, 88, 92, 92, 92, 96, 96, 96): Repeat row 2.

Fold so short edges are matched up and slst to row 1. 

Arrange your work so that the seam is on the inside, you will want the rs facing you. 

Tunisian Set Up:

You will not be able to work all sts at once on your double ended hook. I have indicated working in groups of 19 but you may do  more or less according to your preference and the length of your cord (if your hook has one). 

With Tunisian hook,

1. Pull up a loop in the each of the next 18 row edges. Place your sm in first loop. (19 loops on hook)

2. Turn your work so the wrong side is facing you, slide stitches to the opposite end of your hook, loop yarn from second ball on the hook. 

3. *Yo and pull through 2 loops* until 2 or 3 loops remain (this is also a personal preference, you may choose to leave more), Retp all sts. 

4. Turn your work and continue to pull up loops in each of the row edges, until you have your desired amount on your hook.

5. Turn your work and continuing with RetP yarn, *yo and pull through 2 loops* until 2 loops remain.

Repeat steps 4 – 5 until you have reached your stitch marker. You should have 80 (84, 88, 92, 92, 92, 96, 96, 96) sts total in the first round.

Yoke:

Continue to work each of the following rounds as you did in the set up round, working 19 sts or so at a time. At the beginning of each round, move your sm to mark the start of the round. Complete a normal RetP as *yo and pull through 2 loops* as you work. 

Sizes XS (SM, M, L) only:

Rounds 1-2: Tks around. <80, 84, 88, 92 sts>

Proceed to regular yoke increases.

Sizes XL (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL):

Round 1: *Tks 23 (11, 12, 8, 6), inc 1*, repeat from * to * around, resolving any remaining sts as tks.  <96, 100, 104, 112 sts>

Proceed to regular yoke increases.

Regular Yoke Increases:

Increase round 1: *Tks 2, inc 1*, repeat from * to * around. <120, 126, 132, 138, 144, 150, 156, 162, 168 sts>

Work rounds of tks until your yoke (excluding the collar) measures 2 (2, 2, 2.5, 2.5, 2, 2, 2)”.

Increase round 2: *Tks 3, inc 1*, repeat from * to * around. <160, 168, 176, 184, 192, 200, 208, 216, 224 sts>

Work rounds of tks until your yoke (excluding the collar) measures 4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 4)”.

Increase round 3: *Tks 4, inc 1*, repeat from * to * around. <200, 210, 220, 230, 240, 250, 260, 270, 280 sts>

Work rounds of tks until your yoke (excluding the collar) measures 6 (6, 6.5, 7, 6, 6, 6.5, 5.5, 5.5)”.

Increase round 4: *Tks 20 (10, 10, 8, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5)  inc 1*, repeat from * to * around. <210, 231, 242, 258, 288, 300, 312, 324, 336 sts>

Work rounds of tks until your yoke (excluding the collar) measures 8 (8, 8.5, 9.5, 9.5, 10, 8.5, 7.5, 7.5)”.

Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL, proceed to Body.

Sizes 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL only:

Increase round 5: *Tks (20,10, 8, 6), inc 1*, repeat from * to * around, tks in remaining sts. <315, 343, 364, 392sts>

Work rounds of tks until your yoke (excluding the collar) measures (10, 10.5, 11, 11.5)”.

Body:

Try on your yoke and make sure it is long enough and that you have enough room for your arms. You should be able to comfortably pinch together the front and back under your armpits. If you need to add length, complete extra rounds of tks.

Round 1: Tks 63 (72, 77, 84, 94, 106, 116, 120, 136), sk 42 (44, 44, 48, 54, 56, 62, 68, 68) sts, backwards cast on 2 sts, tks 63 (71, 77, 78, 86, 97, 103, 108, 120), sk 42 (44, 44, 48, 54, 56, 62, 68, 68) sts, backwards cast on 2 sts. <130, 147, 158, 166, 184, 207, 223, 232, 260 sts>

Round 2: Tks in each st around, including the loops from your backwards cast on.

Repeat round 2 until body is -1” than your desired length. Cut your Fwp yarn and continue with your RetP yarn to bottom ribbing.

Bottom Ribbing:

Transfer loop to traditional crochet hook and ch 7.

Row 1: Sc blo in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, slst in next 2 tks sts, ch 1, turn. <6 sc>

Row 2: Sk 2 slst, sc blo across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sc blo 6, slst in next 2 tks sts, ch 1, turn. 

Repeat rows 2 – 3 around, then join last row of ribbing to first row with 6 slst. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Sleeves (2):

Worked in the round in the same manner as the yoke and body. First round is worked into the sk sts and backwards cast on from the first round of the body section. Begin your first round at the underarm in the second of the extra sts you cast on.

Rounds 1 – 4: Tks around. <44, 46, 46, 50, 56, 64, 70, 76, 76 sts>

Round 5: Tks 1, tks2tog, tks until 3 sts remain, tks2tog, tks 1. <42, 44, 44, 48, 54, 62, 68, 74, 74 sts>

Repeat rounds 1 – 5 2 (2 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4) times. <40, 42, 40, 44, 50, 56, 60, 66, 66 sts>

Work rounds of tks until your sleeve measures 17” or preferred length -1” from armpit to sleeve opening. 

Sizes 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X only:

Round 6: *Tks 6 (6, 4, 4, tks2tog*, repeat from * to * around, resolving any remaining sts as tks. <49, 52, 55, 55>

Cut your Fwp yarn and continue with your RetP yarn to sleeve cuff.

Sleeve Cuff:

Transfer loop to traditional crochet hook and ch 7.

Row 1: Sc blo in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, slst in next 2 tks sts, ch 1, turn. <6 sc>

Row 2: Sk 2 slst, sc blo across, ch 1, turn. 

Row 3: Sc blo 6, slst in next 2 tks sts, ch 1, turn. 

Repeat rows 2 – 3 around, then join last row of ribbing to first row with 6 slst. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing:

Block using your preferred method, and weave in all ends.

Before you go…

You are welcome to sell finished items created with this pattern.  I only ask that you credit Hooked Hazel with the original design.  Do not use my photos to sell finished products.  Do not copy, alter, or distribute this pattern. 

I would appreciate your review on Etsy, Ravelry, or Instagram. Tag me in photos, and I may feature your project! Use the hashtags #hookedhazel and #classictunisianpullover to possibly be featured!

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